Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
